So this weekend was incredibly restful and pleasant. My cugini are literally some of the nicest people I've ever met in my life. For those of you who aren't familiar with my family tree, I will explain how everyone is related to me. Luigina is in her 60s, and is my Grandma Elise's first cousin, so she's my third cousin. Giorgio is her husband, who was not in Pesaro this weekend; he's on vacation for a month in Cuba. (When I asked Luigina if she missed him, she said yes and no. She said she doesn't have to cook as much now that he's not here. Those of you who know Giorgio know he's got a bit of a pancia, or tummy.) Andrea is Luigina's first and only son, whose wife is Roberta. They're around 40 and have two beautiful girls: Gaia, who's 7, and Elena, who's 3. Laura is Luigina's second oldest daughter, who is in her 30s and has a 10-year-old son named Mario, or Super Mario, as Andrea calls him. Elisa is Luigina's youngest daughter, who's 28 and runs the family's pizzeria. Everyone got that? There's going to be a quiz later, so study up.
I can't remember if I mentioned this in the last blog, but I have literally never eaten so much in one weekend. The problem was that every meal was prefaced by another smaller meal, and I never seemed to be aware of the fact that the first meal I was consuming was simply an precursor to the next meal. For example, when I got off the train, Luigina and Elisa picked me up at the station and took me to the pizzeria--for dinner, I thought. So I ate up, and as I dabbed the corners of my mouth with my napkin, Luigina asked me if I was ready for dinner. Apparently the pizza was my first dinner. For my second dinner, we had a huge meal of seafood, complete with antipasti, primo piatto, secondo piatto, and fantastic white wine. Don't get me wrong, it was delicious, but I could barely move afterward. Luigina must have taken it upon herself to make sure that I didn't feel a single pang of hunger the entire trip, always encouraging me to mangia, mangia! I had to learn how to say basta, Luigina, per favore, basta! (Enough, Luigina, please, I'm done!) The next morning Luigina made me coffee and set out some toast and biscuits for breakfast, so again I ate up and thanked her for breakfast. She smiled and informed me that Andrea was going to be here in 30 minutes to take me to a real breakfast. Such was the pattern for the rest of the weekend, and by Sunday I began to grow wary seemingly small meals placed in front of me, worried they'd be followed by a huge feast. But Luigina is a fantastic cook, so I am definitely not complaining!
Luigina is not only a fantastic cook, she's also one of the most accommodating people I've ever met. I think it slightly pained her to see me exert any sort of effort in any task throughout the whole weekend. She always insisted on serving me, wouldn't dream of letting me help her with the dishes, and constantly encouraged me to sit on the sofa, covering me in a blanket and telling me I mustn't do any work this weekend; I'm on vacation and need to rest for school! Luigina doesn't speak any English so there was a bit of a language barrier, but Saturday evening we made a breakthrough. We were sitting at the kitchen table drinking coffee, and she took out her family photo albums. She showed me pictures of all my other cousins and pictures of the kids when they were younger, and for the first time all weekend we had a conversation where I actually understood everything she was saying. She showed me her wedding album and excitedly pointed out all my different cousins, pointing to a young, thin Giorgio and saying, Giorgio senza pancia! (Giorgio without his stomach!) Saturday night was definitely a special evening, because I felt like it was the first time Luigina and I really understood each other.
I really like Elisa, who runs the pizzeria. She's very independent and can take care of herself and her family just fine. (Definitely not one who would have struggled as much as I did with the train trip.) Elisa speaks a little English, but when she speaks in Italian I can always understand her. She's as hospitable and good-hearted as her mother, except she lets me do a little bit more than Luigina does. When she took me to the pizzeria Sunday morning, she let me help her roll the dough into balls to flatten into pizzas. My handiwork was not nearly as beautiful as hers, but she assured me that if I'd been working in a pizzeria for 11 years as she had, my pizza balls would be beautiful as well. Elisa is also really good with her nephew Super Mario. Super Mario is pretty shy, so I didn't get to know him as well, but watching Elisa and Super Mario together was fun because the two of them are really close. I didn't get to talk to Laura very much because she was working a lot that weekend, but during meals she always helped me tell Luigina e' piena mamma, e' piena! (She's full, Mamma, she's full!)
On Saturdays kids in Italy have school, so I didn't get to spend a lot of time with Gaia and Super Mario, but Elena and I became best buddies. Luigina says that Elena's una pesta, and Andrea calls her a mostra, and I'm not going to argue the fact that she's got quite a bit of energia. At first she was a little shy around me, so I did my universal baby-sitting icebreaker: the cowboy game. It basically involves me singing a song and bouncing the kid on my knees progressively faster and faster until the kid is bouncing around on my knees like a cowboy on a horse. I've never met a kid who didn't like that game, and I've never met a kid who, after experiencing it once, didn't want to play it another 25 times. Elena was no exception. Ancora, ancora! she'd yell, or again, again! After that she was my little shadow. She loved wearing my boots and my purse, and whatever I did, she had to do the same. She wanted to wear my makeup, when I folded a towel she folded one the same way, etc. If I wasn't in the room: "Cai-tee, Cai-tee, dove sei? Dove sei?" (Where are you, where are you?) At first I didn't understand why everyone insisted she was such a pesta, until we went out to dinner and Roberta told her she had to stay home with Luigina. As her piercing screams reverberated throughout the house, I began to realize that her nicknames were more accurate than I thought. But she really is a doll, so I had a lot of fun playing with her.
Andrea and Roberta are also extremely nice, and they speak English a little better than I speak Italian. When we all went out to dinner we worked out a nice system of speaking half in Italian and half in English, each of us reverting to our native language when we couldn't quite express what we meant in a foreign language. Andrea is a huge joker and is very well-traveled, and he's very interested in learning the slang that Americans use. He got a big kick out of all the expressions I taught him, incredulous of some of the pronunciations. He couldn't believe that the term V.I.P. was pronounced VEE-EYE-PEE, for he had pronounced it VEEP, so I explained to him that the word was an acronym. Andrea also really liked learning about the different swear words and expressions, and there were a few times after he'd loudly repeat an expletive I'd just taught him that the word was offensiva, so maybe not to repeat it quite so loudly. Andrea also talked about some of his favorite restaurants in the United States that he'd frequented, giving El Pollo Loco, Wendy's, and Jack-in-the-Box two huge thumbs up. I told him next time he and Roberta came to America I'd take them to get some really good Mexican food and steak or something. "But first, we go to El Pollo Loco," Andrea grinned.
So my weekend with the cugini was really fun, and it was great to get so much practice in speaking Italian. On the train ride home, I found myself actually thinking in Italian: mamma mia, ci sono troppi personi sul questo treno! (Mamma mia, there's too many people on this train!) I'm becoming una vera italiana indeed. The train ride itself is quite lovely, though. The ride is through the hills, and I felt like I was going through some kind of fairy tale. After being in the city so long it was nice to see green grass, winding creeks and rolling hills, as well as a little bit of snow on the tops of the mountains. It was a nice ending to a very lovely weekend.
Monday was a cold day in Firenze so we spent the afternoon in Florence's national photography museum. I'm a big photography fan, so it was cool getting to look at all the pictures from the early 1900s of the peasants and farm workers. Monday night my roommates and I went out to dinner at this really popular place in Florence called Za Za's. It was a little expensive, but extremely worth it because the food was fantastic, and although the wine was really cheap it was still really good. Mom, Grandma, and Aunties, we will definitely go there for dinner one night when you all are here!
Tuesday my roommate Sarah and I went to the volunteer center and met with a woman who helped set us up with some volunteer work. I really enjoy volunteering but at home I feel like I never have enough time to do it. Here we have free afternoons, so it seemed like the perfect time to do some volunteer work. Whenever I think of Italy, I think of this magical fairy land in which there are beautiful clothes and jewelry, fantastic food and wine, rolling hills and scenery, creamy gelato, warm and welcoming people, cobblestones, and a secret language you have to know that sounds like music when people speak it. And Italy is all of those things, but it's also a real-life place where people live and work and are poor and have problems. Sarah and I went to the women's homeless shelter where we'll be working and it hit us that Italy is not a fairy-tale land for everyone. We'll be working in a homeless shelter that accepts women from many different parts of the world who escaped to Italy from their hard lives in other countries. A lot of them have children and most don't speak any Italian. Sarah and I start next week, and I think it will not only be an opportunity to practice Italian with other women who don't speak the language, but I think it's also going to be a really great opportunity to reach out to women and children who could really use a friend.
Tuesday afternoon my roommate Ai and my classmate Nick and I went for a run up above the Piazzale San Michaelangelo, the place where you climb up the steps and can see the whole city perfectly. There's another hill you can run up and it takes you to this park that overlooks the Tuscan hills. It was an absolutely stunning view, and the sun was shining so that made it all the better. The gates to this vineyard off the road were open, so we ran inside and ran through the vineyard, illegally most likely, but it was so worth it. We ran up and down the hills and through the trees, and the whole time we could see this magnificent panorama of the Tuscan hills and the city. On our way back we ran into a smiling old man named Fernando, who wanted to know where we were from. He talked to us in very fast Italian, telling us that we were in Florence, beautiful Florence, oh, how Florence is so beautiful. He told us he was an old man who was going for a walk, an old man of seventy-seven years old who likes to walk around the road. He told us about the church that was up the road, and when Nick asked Fernando if he believed in another life after death, he replied, "Oh, certo." He smiled broadly, and I noticed that his eyes were like marble, comprised of brown, green, and blue in the center. He looked at us fondly, touched my cheek and said, "Che belissimi giovani," you beautiful young kids. He bid us good-bye and as we waved, I found myself hoping very, very hard that I'll run into Fernando again someday.
Well, it's now Wednesday and I've got to start packing for my trip to Foggy Londontown. I leave tomorrow afternoon with the other girls in the program right after school, and I'll be there til Sunday (back in time to see Bruce perform at the Superbowl!). After I pack we're having some of our classmates over for dinner, then we're going to Sam's for the famous 70s disco party. Groovy, bambino! (I tried to translate "Groovy, baby" in Italian, but I don't think it's quite the same.)
Vi voglio bene, e vi manco moltissimo! (Giula's been quizzing us on reflexive verbs, so there's two I can show off to her next week: I love you all and I miss you tons!)
Love,
Caity